I spent the weekend in Juba, and before returning to Yei today I had to visit the big market in Juba this morning - intending to take in the atmosphere and take some photos without confronting an SPLA soldier with a Kalashnikov and a lethal thousand-meter-stare.
I managed to avoid the occasional, stumbling drunk - and truly scary - SPLA soldier. Instead a man (identifying himself as 'working for the government with anti-corruption') tried insistingly to put the message through that I was unwanted; You've got five minutes, and then I want you out of Juba!'. He was instantly dealt with by our local driver and other by-standers, who explained to me that the guy was traumatised. A category which is used throughout to describe the human impact of the civil war in Southern Sudan.
I backed out of the market, while our driver kept explaining don't be scared! - while talking sense to the traumatised person, who then throw himself at an - from what I could see - innocent Masai man. Donk! I turned around and was greeted by this tall man (probably a Dinka) who kind of slapped me with his outstretched palm right on my chest and then putting a friendly massive white teeth front set on display.
I still cannot believe that the traumas are this visible that you can litterally feel and observe it this clearly just by meeting people in the street. Talking about trauma or being fucked-up in a crazy place in Africa, the occasional South African de-miner, paramedic or whatever is just as scary as a local traumatised Sudanese (at least the Sudanese has an explanation). Not like the self-sufficient South African paramedic I met at a party last night who tried to convince me of the uniqueness of his job -and that he would only help his own, and never ever give medical help to a local Sudaneseh, because 'neither UN nor the GoSS can provide security'). Some people ought to stay home!
Man, this place is so crazy - and who knows if I ever will be back?!

Yeah, I have heard that the trauma effects can be really tangible. I wonder what Iraq will feel like after this spate of violence they are having.
And that South African sucks. Tell him on my behalf.
Posted by: The 27th Comrade | Monday, 06 August 2007 at 08:39 AM