::::I've Left Copenhagen for Uganda::::

Pork, matatus, cocktails, Danes and Ugandans...

Danes love pork. So do a lot of Ugandans. And it is always a treat to be invited for pork by a Ugandan. I have been here long enough to know that Arua is the place for pork, and that the surburb Ntinda is the place to eat pork in Kampala.

Yesterday Dennis Matanda had invited all the Ugandan bloggers to Joglo in Ntinda. Besides munching in pork and cassava, it gave the Danes an opportunity to say proper good-bye to the Ugandan bloggers.

For me - who have been following the process on the sideline - I am amazed how well it went. The Danes have been a pleasure to take round Uganda (I feared they wouldn't be well-prepared or too sensitive towards Ugandan culture, but no). The Ugandan bloggers showed Ugandan hospitality at its best (I feared they wouldn't contribute, but no). In particular, I believe that both parts learned something new from each other, which they hadn't thought of, and I believe a few stereotypes were cracked. I learned quite a bit on the sideline, at least.

Afterward Dennis stuffed us all into a matatu and send us off to Kisementi and Fat Boys. The spirit was high, and the cocktail list long...

Mabira, CHOGM, FDC and governmental rhetorics

One of Uganda's leading dailies,  the New Vision, Saturday published an editorial titled; 'Opposition should have Uganda at heart'. You can read the whole text here.

In short, the editorial is about the Mabira Forest protests, the up-coming Common Wealth Meeting (CHOGM) and the opposition. In particular I paid attention to the last three paragraphs.

It is unthinkable that any opposition party in the UK would try to boycott an international event benefiting the entire country the way FDC has been doing. Already in Malta, the opposition tried to block Uganda from hosting CHOGM.

You can disagree with Museveni and his Government on many issues. But you should do so in a constructive way, using the appropriate channels, and always having the interests of the country at heart. One only has to look at Somalia to see what anarchy and the pursuit of selfish interests by certain politicians and groups can lead to in Africa.

Certainly, the Government could do more to listen to the people and engage the opposition in dialogue. But attempts of the opposition to sabotage CHOGM and turn Uganda into a pariah- state cannot be justified.

Somehow this editorial piece manages to blend it all together in order to conclude that 1) the opposition (FDC?) uses the 2) Mabira Forest protests to create insecurity in general, in the streets in Kampala in particular, 3) but for the higher purpose of destroying Uganda's opportunities to show off at its best when the CHOGM visitors arrive. If they will arrive, because rumours will that anonymous sources in the British government have stated that the situation might be too insecure regarding the safety of the Queen. In fact there is a strong tendency at the moment to stirr up rumours of uncertainty concerning the CHOGM, not a very factual discussion, I'm afraid. But it makes you think.

It seems as if the editorial is using the old trick to play on dubious loyalty to the nation's interests. But why would the New Vision do so? Wouldn't a serious editorial also question the Ugandan government's evident attempts to cover up that they are failing on time management for the CHOGM regarding road construction, hotels, power, diesel, Juba Peace Talks, well - with or without the CHOGM - the Ugandan government is failing regarding the IDP camps in northern Uganda, the instability of the Juba Peace Talks and the growing problem in Karamoja in north eastern Uganda. If the CHOGM secretariat are looking for reasons to boycot the next meeting in Uganda, there are better ones.

And why doesn't the editorial question that the people behind the Mabira protests and the FDC might have different motives, maybe they are not even the same? I don't know, I don't have any preferences, I am just looking for some journalistic coverage on a higher level. I would actually like to know what is what, but the papers doesn't dig into it. For me this editorial is quite an interesting example of giving space to governmental rethorics. (Actually, go back and give it a try while imagining that the progress-friendly president wrote the editorial).

The images are from the Jinja Road/Yussuf Lule roundabout, where the Electoral Commission, the institutional body charged with administering elections in Uganda, has recently painted impressive slogans motivating Ugandans to practise their democratic right.

Confused?!

Ugandan fast food - can you stomach it?!

If you are on the move and feel hungry, an easy snack is to buy a hardboiled egg and add some salt. These eggs are - on line with meat sticks, fried grashoppers and white ants (when in season), deep fried cassava and sweet potatoes, roasted mealies, samosa, the cake-like mandazis and fruit (for dessert?) - the most frequent snacks all through Uganda.

Some wazungu see it as a problem that the food comes without any valuable information of how long ago it was produced and then kept in 30 degrees heat. Some question the fact that a lot of merchants stick to the rule that if the food is not sold today, why not try to sell it the day or the day after? You would hear me say that it is up to you and your stomach. People also get severe stomach infections from eating in expensive restaurants in Kampala.

I have always travelled the Balkans and Africa with the slightly naïve approach that occasional roadside food might toughen me up, harden my immune system, and make me blend in. I have even confused my menthal health with the one of my stomach, having an idea that if my brain could cope wiht the harshness of Africa, so could my stomach. But after having suffered from various infections, and the subsequent yeast infections caused by the antibiotics, I began using both parts of my brain, slowly admitting that maybe I shouldn't take it as a test of how good I am at making it in Africa...

I am longing for dansk smørrebrød!

4th Ugandan Bloggers' Happy Hour

It is an interesting phenomenon - this Ugandan Bloggers Happy Hour. In how many African capitols do people get together for a few hours on the last Thursday night every month for a beer and a chat? Just because they blog. Or as someone said to me last night; 'I'm here because I read blogs', which I find just as good a reason.

Jackfruity asks today 'for those of you who blog under your real names (Baz, Pernille and Dennis come to mind), do you ever worry about the effect blogging may have on your personal life?'. - Good question. I think I rely very much on the Danish freedom of speech (notoriously know from the Muhammed cartoons) when I write about general stuff.

Originally, I wanted to blog seriously and deep down to the point about the personal side of being a Danish development worker, I always missed the personal approach and political incorrect view on development work in Africa. However, in spite I often take it to the edge, I realised there is a lot I simply can't say. Firstly, because it would be too internal (boring to the majority), and secondly because it would compromise the people I work with and the organisation I work for.

There are quite a few topics I would like to be able to write more personally about - i.e. the frequently asked questions I constantly get regarding how I cope as a single woman in northern Uganda concerning sex (!!); or what exactly I am doing to get my next job. (Believe me the answers are not going together). I am afraid it would compromise myself to an extent I wouldn't like to chair. Hence, I also realised it is necessary to state that whatever I blog is on my own account, not the organisation I work or the people I work with.

I think the UBBH is quite unique. For me personally - I prefer that there is more to it than just the chatting and drinking beers. And I think it is gradually coming. But maybe it could be facilitated a bit more, excuse me for bringing my development worker background into this - but maybe we could exchange more technical ideas on blogging (writing, technical stuff, photography)?

I believe the UBHH has inspired more people in Uganda to blog. I also think that the mix of waungu expats and the local Ugandans have generated inspiration and discussion which might enhance the quality and range of blogging in a Ugandan context. It has definitely created a network which has a life outside cyberspace.

I have learned a lot. For one thing I have seen that Ugandans express themselves directly. Ugandans observe and comment on things I had no clue about, but which has helped me understand Uganda. I believe there is a huge potential - information- and influencewise to integrate blogging in development work. On the other side I think my observations feed the other way back. I get a lot of reactions on the fact that I travel and live in a 'no-go-area', which even Ugandans no little of. Many have noticed Willy Akena's blogging in Gulu, and I hope we can inspire more Ugandans to blog from these areas to give first hand information.

Bloggers supporting what?

I met American Kelly last night at the UBHH. I also asked her some of the same questions which Jackfruity does ask in general today on her blog, and which I will return to in another post.

However, she writes today on her blog:

Baz made the suggestion that since UBHH meets once a month, every month we should throw in 5k each (approx 3.00$) and use the money to pay for school fees for a kid in Gulu, courtesy of the Uganda Bloggers! I thought it was a very nice idea if we could organize it properly and make sure the money went directly to the school and that the kid went to school. I would suggest though that we choose a poor kid from the Kampala area, just so that it would be easier for us to monitor since we all live here.

Allow me to support Baz' original idea. I like the thing about moving focus outside K'la. Some of us don't live in Kampala, you know ;-) - and I would like to encourage more people to blog in the areas of Uganda's black conscience, like Gulu or West Nile. Even a lot of Ugandans have no clue of what this is like. This initiative could possibly help that process. The child mentioned on Willy's blog is one out of thousands! There are many worthy ideas and people to support in this country. Even in Kampala. My idea is however to support those bloggers up country that don't have the benefits of blogging from Kampala.

How Kampala got its name

Before the arrival of the British, the Buganda King, the Kabaka had chosen the area that was to become Kampala as one of his favourite hunting grounds. The area was made up of numerous rolling hills and lush wetlands. It was an ideal breeding ground for various antelopes - particularly the Impala. When the British arrived they called the area the Hills of the Impala.

The word Impala is used to describe a particular species of antelope (Aepyceros melampus) common across Africa - the word's origin is likely to have been from the Zulu language in South Africa. It was then adopted into the English language by the British. The language of the Buganda, Luganda, adopted many 'English' words from Buganda's interaction with the British.

In this case, the word 'impala' was adopted and the Baganda translated the "...hill of the Impala" as Kasozi ka Empala - Kasozi means 'hill' in Luganda, ka means 'of' and empala means 'impala'. When spoken in Luganda the 'ka' and 'empala' are pronounced together, as one word - Kaampala, and soon whenever the Kabaka went hunting the Baganda would say Kabaka agenze e "ka Empala" - "The Kabaka has gone to Ka'mpala". The name Kampala soon stuck.

Taken from the Wikipedia.

Just around the corner

The interesting thing about northern Uganda is that you never know what's around the next corner (work-wise as well as on the road).

Lately I have seen too many of these trucks overturned like on the photo.

Lately I have also seen too many crashes between busses, salon cars and matatus. Cracked and crystalised front screens, sometimes with people still trapped inside, stuck behind the wheel in a lethal position. Sometimes stained with blood. Sometimes a dead passenger wrapped in plastic lying waiting at the road side for his last destination.

The worst thing I watched lately was a salon car overturned on a marram road, where I saw the upper part of a 2-year old crawling out. It only took few seconds, but I held my breath untill I was sure that the child was in one piece.  I consider myself not the sensitive type, but my body reacts strongly when I see things like this.

I fear the busses (Gaagaa, Nile Coach, Gateway...) not driving, but flying from the district towns up country to Kampala on an hourly basis. When meeting them on the highway I lower the speed to a minimum to let them pass. It feels like being overtaken by a spaceship, while you try not to loose direction in the heavy slipstream. Yoy ask yourself how it can be allowed?! The Mundu in Arua has a good piece on why the busses are the typical cause of accidents and why it carries on - here.

My worst meeting ever.

Yesterday I participated in one of the worst meetings ever. An executive committee meeting at my local partner organisation. The trouble of the organisation has been evident even before my arrival to Uganda, but as people in northern Uganda are extremely hesistant to speak their mind openly, afraid of confrontations and obedient to hierachy and authorities, it takes long before we can deal with the actual point.

People would rather talk in corners, and wrap accusations in polite phrases, so you actually forget for a while what is actually said. People accept bad leadership, lack of communication, and they accept to wait for things to happen by themselves. To be precise, the meeting took around 11 hours. I left it around 6 pm out of frustration. I remember I used the term 'ridiculous!', and tried to bang the door properly to the payot. I have never done that before.

I work for a Danish NGO which doesn't allow jerry cans...

Our MS Uganda administrator keeps texting us development workers SMSes which i.e. go like this one; 'Bukoto, Entebbe, Gayaza Rd., Gulu, Keyfuel, Kibuli, Masaka Centre, Mbarara will get some diesel 2day. Keep checking there...'

Ugandans know why. Uganda has had a shortage of fuel for weeks. It is said that the major cause of the current low supply of fuel is caused by technical constraints on the Kenya pipeline system, which is facing frequent shutdowns due to lack of power.

Wednesday morning I was in Gulu, spending most of my morning searching for diesel. I finally located a Delta Petrol station which obviously had fuel, and so had the rest of Gulu. A fight for being first in line had begun.

Fine. This is Africa. Those are the conditions. But I almost turned violet violent when I realised that people can walk straight up with a couple of drums and eight 20-liter jerry cans, and get them filled. Meaning that the drivers behind wheels don't have a chance (unless they carry jerry cans, too - which everone else except I did). But it also means that the majority of jerry can carriers most likely will walk off and sell the fuel for a convenient profit around the next corner.

I had only waited in the line for few minutes when a guy approached me with an offer which could have lowered my irritation of the hassling of pushing cars in front of each other. I did say no, though I have to admit that I felt tempted to ask for his telephone number - just in case. Incidents like this make me pick up on something which doesn't cling well with being a decent Danish development worker working for anti-corruption and good governance. I push my car persistently forward every possible inch, I use the space someone else was forced to make to get another truck out, and I make it to the pump where the woman fills my car. Call it adjustment to African standards.

And wish me luck - today I have to locate diesel in Arua...

Woman selling matoke, some tomatoes and a hen

...and then she was smiling very shyly when I asked if I could take her photo.

To me this is northern Uganda in one photo; a woman dressed in a mix of kufa ulay and vitenge, on the way to Arua market with green matoke and a kawera with tomatoes from her shamba, a hen and the purse for small change.

Poverty comes in many versions. Never ignore the dignity, pride and beauty - of what we call 'common people' in our policy papers.