:: louder than swahili

Escaping Tanzania

   

Photos from this morning's departure from Dar es Salaam.

The fast reader has already guessed where I have landed.

Still on the continent.

Holidays.

Final Final Update: Sauti za Busara

Have a look at the photos from Sauti za Busara 2009 here, which I have finally got together in a set.

Do also check the Baobabconnection's sum up here, and the UNAA Times here, who picked up on the Omega Bugembe Okello performance.

Meanwhile, I will try to finish an article for this new Danish magazine about the Sauti za Busara.

Where to buy the Obama kanga?

Much debate here on where to get the Obama kanga, if you live outside Tanzania. The solution is near - get it here.

Zimbabwean Poetry: Love You Like A Riot

I am composing an article for a Danish world culture magazine about the Sauti za Busara.

Some of the music experiences fortunately fade straight away (like this one), but some stay and repeat themselves on my CD player. Like Comrade Fatso and Chabvondoka.

I think that was true love at first listening.

This one is a favorite:

...But to live a day without your touch
Well that’s asking too much
‘Cause I need you like a riot needs a petrol bomb
I love you like a freedom fighter loves freedom
I need you like a bottle store needs to break laws
Like capitalism needs wars
I need you like struggle needs Nehanda
Like mbira loves ngoma
Like art loves inspiration
Like destruction craves creation
I need your power, your lips
Your philosophies your hips
Your strength, your beauty
Your love, your poetry
Your fire, your desire
Your body, your energy

(cc) Comrade Fatso

Samm Farai Monro, better known as Comrade Fatso, is one of the most popular and controversial poets in the Zimbabwe arts scene. Cde Fatso calls his poetry Toyi Toyi Poetry, radical street poetry that mixes Shona with English and mbira with hip hop. Its an art form that is an uprising against the bloody ZANU (PF) regime.

Invitation for chai & chapati in Ruthi's 'mgahawa'

 

Today I spent the day on a field trip going from Arusha to Kiserian Village in Longido District, an area close to the border to Kenya (about 30 minutes from Namanga Town).

The purpose of the visit was to visit a group pf women, who have been supported on sensitisation on land rights - by the NGO I work for.

During the visit we were invited for chai & chapati in Ruthi's mgahawa - her tiny tea- and guesthouse.

Haraka, Haraka, the very important people are coming...

The airport police at the old airport in Dar es Salaam were busy getting the ordinary people out of the way - in order to welcome the very important people.

In this case the President of China.

In Tanzania, it seems, there is often very important people coming and very ordinary people in the way.

My personal favorite: Comrade Fatso and Chabvondoka

Just one note on yesterday's Sauti za Busara (and then I will go to bed and try to figure out why I thought I could stomach the mishkaki from the food stall) - Comrade Fatso and Chabvondoka from Zimbabwe were fantastic, and something which I believe hit me straight.

When Comrade Fatso swung his dreadlocks, jumped around the stage and then suddenly grabbed the microphone holder, offering his political viewpoints on Zimbabwe, the ordience inhaled collectively, not expecting this urban, rebellious and political performance.

The performers even picked up on the typical Precision Air characteristics (they were redirected over Kenya) and the 'Jambo Bwana' CD which the hustlers try to impose on tourists on Kenyatta Road.

Even better: I got the CD!

Panorama: Sauti za Busara in all colours

People Watching

What the Sauti za Busara festival bar shelves might lack in diversity, the mix of people, performers. colours and flavours compensate. It almost sounds like such a cliche to be repeating the fact, that this is the core of Zanzibar. However, this variety, which is so unique to Zanzibar, is strongly reflected within the Sauti za Busara, the people and the performers.

In fact, this is one of the most interesting parts of this festival; People watching.

A huge sea cruise ship has plunged its anchor in the Stone Town bay, shining bright at night from what seems like a thousand tiny windows. From here groups of elderly wazungu, sensibly dressed with sunhats, some with supporting sticks, enter the festival from smaller boats taking them from the ship to the shore. Yesterday, an elderly couple walked up to me and a friend, asking about the state of Forodhani Gardens (wonder if anyone knows the answer to this), assuming we were 'some of these young students studying at the university.'

And there are many of them at the Sauti za Busara. And in the eyes of someone twice my age, we might at first sight appear to belong to this category of the young, western European volunteers or tourists, who are not only 10-15 years younger than us, but also people who seem to spend most days on the beach, and typically dress too minimalistacally in terms of cultural sensitivity.

An issue which seems completely irrelevant to this category, in spite the largest parts of the ordience are people from Stone Town, who dress more conservatively and according to Islamic and Swahili tradition.

It is quite interesting to see how this mix, nevertheless, is lived out in a confined space like the Old Fort.

Maybe it works because there also exists an interesting balance between the performers who range from i.e. Omega, a Uganda/American singing in Luganda and English (photo above); Sansa, a Ugandan ngoma (traditional folk music) troup, Tarbia - a local Zanzibar group, based in a madras a (an Islamic school) and who performs on a spiritual and religious base - to last night's politically engaged and loud, British performer, TY (photo below), who gave a whole other impression of hip hop, than I'd expected from reading about him in the programme.

Hip hop with soul and heart. 

I stood next to a somewhat 9-year old girl, shouting out loud; 'Love you, TY!' In spite, the man was awesome, I left the confessions to the 9-year old. Man, this power, dressed up in a Zanzibar print one-size-fits-all shirt, did also reach me!

Sansa - the traditional folk music band from Uganda - I'd usually say that I have had my share of ngoma - but when a guy last night walked up to me in a mixture of joy and pride presenting himself with a big smile and a; 'Hi, I am Charles from Uganda. Did you see me perform?', I truly did regret that I hadn't.

These meetings and conversations are, so to speak, the stuff Sauti za Busara is made of - and what makes this so different to a music festival in Europe.

Sound Tests

Today I walked through the Old Fort after lunch and watched the performers do sound tests.

This is the best time to get photos of performers - they pay attention, the sky is blue and the light is sufficient.

It is burning hot at this time of day, and visitors and artists withdraw to the right corner below where there seems to be a bit of shade. The photo is taken with my mobile phone's panorama function, and might give an impression of the festival settings. In evenings the place is crowded.  

When I left the Old Fort a song by the Zimbabwean Comrade Fatso, performing on Sunday at 9.15, blasted through the space: House of Hunger. I can't wait to watch this guy!

Check today's photos here - sound tests with Carola Kinasha & Shada, and Joh Makini. I have just learnt that Carola is from Longido, a place I visited back in October 2008 - see photos here.

Carnival Parade - Sauti za Busara is on

I arrived at 6 o'clock this morning to Stone Town after 12 hours in transit between Kilimanjaro, Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.

Courtesy of Precision Air. Highly non-recommendable.

Therefore, my energy levels were low, but somehow I made it to the carnival parade at 4 o'clock, where the Old Fort exploded into a session of human fireworks (including a couple of mad donkeys), and signaled the festival opened.

More photos here.

Africa: According to Gaddafi

Tanzania's President, Kikwete, last month handed over the chairmanship of the African Union to Libyan leader Col Muammar Gaddafi who is already keeping me entertained with his ability to think out of the box.

Literally.

Why didn't the Danish prime minister, Anders Fogh Rasmussen, invite him to spice up his Danish Africa Commission which is there to adress future challenges in Africa?

Like this week Gadafi apparently said he would like a United States of Africa to include 'Caribbean islands with African populations'. He also sympathised with Somali pirates, describing their actions as self-defence, and that multi-party democracy only led to bloodshed in Africa and that the best model for Africa was his own country, where opposition parties are not allowed.

The BBC Africa writes on that the response from many of his fellow African leaders was lukewarm and raised eyebrows.

Interesting.

Working in Africa: A Priveledge

Monday I flew out of Dar es Salaam (photo) to Arusha (in an old Precision Air aircraft which somehow resembled flying in a old microwave oven: steamy hot, nosiy and unsafe).

Tuesday I gave a presentation to the last batch of MS development workers - historically some might say - being prepared by MS' training centre in Usa River in Arusha. My presentation was about the history of the (Danish) development worker back from 1963, where the first ones arrived in Dar es Salaam, til now (where development workers come in several nationalities) - an attempt to put the present development worker into a broader context which is characterised by fast changes on a lot of levels.

Not an easy job, but a good group.

One of the participants, one with a much longer MS history than me, later during a cocktail party confided that it is a priviledge to work in Africa. And that one is stupid not to appriciate it while it lasts.

Very wise words. I completely agree.

And I still think I have one of the most exciting jobs, and it only adds on that I get to go places and watch Africa from above. Like today in some few hours, I fly back from Kilimanjaro to the Swahili Coast, to Stone Town on Zanzibar for the Sauti za Busara.

Crazy About Obama: But keep it to yourself

Whenever I see Obama iconised I want to capture it.

To share the good news.

However, not all Tanzanians agree with me that this is a good idea.

In Zanzibar I haven't had any problems so far, but taken into consideration that they have devoted probably the finest square in Stone Town for Obama, it might explain their enthusiasm for sharing the good news.

I have, however, wondered a bit about this phenomenon - not wanting to share - when I for God's knows what sensible reason - found myself in a souvenir shop in the Slipway Village, browsing through their t-shirts, looking for a gift.

The shopkeeper appeared to manage the shop in horisontal mode, dozing, but finally got on her feet. I asked her if I could take a photo.That I collect Obama icons from Africa for my website.

She just looked at me and went: 'And then you will copy our t-shirt design and sell it in the US and make lots of money.'

I actually argued that I have no such idea, also that it would be troublesome, after all I'm Danish, and have by the way never been to the US. And have no plans to. In particular I have no plans to set up a t-shirt design business based on her t-shirts, which are not really that unique and therefore is unlikely to provide me with a source of income.

Highly unlikely. Not only for the practical matters and the fact that I am no business person. But also because I haven't seen anything really new yet (not since the kanga here), in terms of putting Obamas portrait on merchandise.

In fact I am sure that the one who printed these t-shirts in this souvenir shop, got inspired from someone else. The t-shirt design seem to repeat itself endlessly. Not much new.

Obviously the reluctancy towards not wanting to share deives from the fact that copyright in Africa isn't often respected, not just concerning t-shirt prints. It goes for photos, texts, lyrics, project proposals, CVs, recommendations, job applications - and blogs.

The copying mentality and the accept of breaking fundamental copyright rules unfortunately put a heavy lid on the creativity - and the willingness to share - a prerequisition for development.

Top 50 Blogs For Studying Africa

The continent of Africa is the second-most populated in the world and has 53 countries within its border. Yet despite both its diversity and enormity, the African continent remains one of the least studied by American students.

In an attempt to provide students, laymen, and educators with a single resource from which they can begin their own exploration of the richness and diversity of Africa, we have compiled a list of what we consider to be the 50 best blogs to learn about African culture, news, politics, and viewpoints. Blogs are an excellent way to learn about nations and cultures due to the passion, diversity of perspective and honesty of the writing, which you won’t often find in textbooks. We have categorized these top 50 blogs as follows: Politics and Human Rights, News, Culture & Art, Technology and Entrepreneurship, and viewpoints from many of the African Countries.

Happy to have my blog included on one more list here.

More Fire! The Sauti za Busara is on this Thursday

This coming Thursday the Sauti za Busara - the Zanzibar music festival - is on in Stone Town. 

It is the sixth edition of the Sauti za Busara music festival and it will take place in Zanzibar, 12-17 February 2009; admission is free to all each day before sunset.

I am obviously going, the event is too good to miss.

I'll also be blogging from the festival - so check my blog from the 12th for festival impressions, and do also check posts here and photos here from last year.

In particular I'm looking forward to these performers: Natacha Atlas (Egypt / UK),  Culture Musical Club(Zanzibar),  The Moreira Project (South Africa), and Comrade Fatso and Chabvondoka (Zimbabwe).

You cannot do both. Lakini, in East Africa you can...

In a meeting today on MS Tanzania's ongoing merger with Action Aid Tanzania the facilitator used an image to illustrate that two different ways of doing the same thing cannot be merged into one.

It is either one of them: 'In Denmark you drive in the right side of the road, in Tanzania the left. You cannot do both at the same time.'

Someone, correctly mentioned; 'But it happens every morning on Ali Hassan Mwinyi in Dar es Salaam.'

On Uhuru Highway in Nairobi, too, where this photo is from.

Stuck in the Dar es Salaam Traffic

Looking at the blue sky. Listening to an old Waterboys song which goes something like this:

Here we stand
In a special place
What are you gonna do here?
Now we stand
In a special place
What will you do here?
What show of soul
Are we gonna get from you
It could be deliverance
Or history under these skies
So blue
Could be something true...

...but if I know you
You’ll bang the drum like monkeys do

Here we are in this fabulous place
What are you you gonna dream here?
We are standing in this fabulous place
What will you play here?
I know you love the high life
You life to leap around
You love to beat your chest
And make your sound
But not here man
- this is sacred ground
With a power flowing through...

..and if I know you
You’ll bang the drum like monkeys do

Fantastic piece of music when played out loud. Makes the traffic jam go away. At least on a mental level.