Part of my job while in Kenya is to get some inputs back for a website on Anti-Corruption, so obviously I sharpened my observations from the point of departure.
I am reading Michaela Wrong’s book ‘It’s Our Turn to Eat'. Add to that a couple of years in Africa, and I see the different nuances of corruption in anything.
However, still, Kenya has taken me by surprise.
People talk endlessly about corruption, but as soon as I suggest quoting or filming, they look back at me as if I have no idea of where I am.
But people talk.
On the plane I got seated next to a young man of Ethiopian origin, who used to live in Kenya, now Canada, and was on his way to Uganda. He said he left Kenya due to the fact ‘that you cannot make money there’, so now he drives a truck in Canada and sends money home to his family in Nairobi.
While crossing the Mediterranean we had a long talk about how you can make money on things which are not legal, or maybe not legal. Like selling miraa. Or bying cars from Japan, taking them from Mombassa to Juba in South Sudan and sell them for a hefty profit.
He explained that, no doubt, he hated the widespread corruption in Kenya, but also that you cannot avoid using the same methods in order to make a living.
When I arrived at the customs in Jomo Kenyatta I chose ‘Nothing to Declare’, a man with a broad smile asked me:
Didn't you bring a gift for Kenya?’
I replied 'ah, ah!' in a tone matching the nonsense, but mainly because the man took me completely by surprise. Walking out of the airport I was left with the feeling that I had absolutely no clue if I had just walked through one of these moments where Africa strikes back at the clueless mzungu?
Yesterday's Daily Nation put a retreating Minister of Foreign Affairs on the front page, stating that he didn't do (corruption) it - but that the civil servants did; and that fuelled several conversations with taxi drivers and askaris, going on about 'how much the wafisadi eat, leaving nothing for the poor'.Yesterday, a radio reporter also covered the story about the minister, quoted Kibaki, saying 'that corruption mainly occur behind closed doors'.
It sure made me wonder if Kibaki ever go out at all.
In particular, because corruption at points is so tangible in Kenya.
Like the intimidating, and probably drunk, police officer demonstrating the complex art of kitu kidogo on a dark suburban roadwhen I returned to my guesthouse by taxi.
You wonder why corruption is a habit so hard to beat, when everyone agrees it is bad. You smile back at the passifying smiles accompanying the 'pole' from Kenyans responding to the contemplations they've already heard a thousand times before.
John Githongo, in Michaela Wrong’s book ‘It’s Our Turn to Eat’, explains: ‘You simply do it because you can’.
Maybe it is all about psychology, isn't it?!
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