July 02, 2008

If Johannesburg was a woman she'd be a bitch

JojoIt all went too fast. A ride on the highway from the suburbs to Johannesburg is fast.

Glimpses of people's faces, the Jo'burg skyline, the fast-forward mini-taxis - the equivalent of the East African matatus and daladalas.

The first time I visited Africa was back in November 2003 where I arrived to Johannesburg on a Zimbabwean cargo plane from Luxembourg. Long story, which resulted in a free ride from Europe to the continent and country I'd heard so much of.

Back then when I first got out the car at the Market Theatre downtown Johannesburg and subsequently were taken for a ride through Hillbrow, the most infamous part of the old Johannesburg, I was sure something bad was gonna happen. It didn't.

We did it again yesterday. I must admit that the skyline photo was taken in haste as we were approached by three young guys with no sure destination. The rest of the photos are taken from inside the car (which explains the reflection of my dotted jacket).Joburg_in_the_late_afternoon_hour

It is hard to believe, but this is still Africa, the concrete jungle, Johannesburg. You can buy t-shirts saying 'Jozi is my bitch'. Jozi is the nickname for Johannesburg, or Jo'burg. I'm sure that if Johannesburg was a woman she'd be a bitch. And mind you, it is to be taken as a compliment.

A visit to the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg

Apartheid Flag On_2 Mandela_3 Non_whiteCheck out the Apartheid Museum here: www.apartheidmuseum.org

July 01, 2008

Free Car Wash

Water_pump_burstOn Saturday a water pump burst in a Johannesburg suburb. And drivers took their cars for a free car wash.

June 30, 2008

We've been having it...

The latest Vodacom advert from South Africa has caused a lot of laughter, though some also say that Vodacom is taking it to the edge. Sure they are, but somehow they do that very well - the Kenyan actor Charles Bukeko does an impressive look-alike Idi Amin.

Check it out here. And read a background piece here.

Why I love Johnny Clegg

Clegg Last night I went to watch Johnny Clegg in the Civic Theatre in Johannesburg. I have previously written about Johnny Clegg on my blog - I absolutely love his music, and I regard him as one of the most interesting and important personalities in terms of understanding African culture and history and in terms of adding words and feelings to it.

I'm a great admirer of not only his music, but of what this man has achieved in general. Today the man is 54, and he still pulls off a show so vivid and full of enthusiasm and fascination that you leave it in high spirit and full of hope. Johnny Clegg is also a hell of a charming man, and honestly, I felt like I was in love with him standing there with his guitar, explaining he is too old to do the proper dance moves tonight (sore muscles). Don't tell, but it made me google 'johnny clegg's wife' afterwards.

A feeling of enthusiasm spread, you can say, which lead on to the tequila shots and subsequently the massive hangover I've been suffering from today. Definitely not Johnny Clegg's fault, that is more likely to be blamed on the group of people whom I went with - all people who have grown up and lived in Zimbabwe, Swaziland, Mozambique and South Africa. People who, so to speak, grew up with Johnny Clegg. Johnny Clegg wasn't part of my Danish music curriculum, and neither was apartheid, the violent history or the African culture which to a large extent is a turning point in Johnny Clegg's music.

But it certainly does stuff to me. And this is the complex part.

For the past three years I have driven on thousand of kilometers of red roads while listening to songs like 'Its a Cruel, Crazy Beautiful world', 'Scatterlings of Africa' (the video recorded in Zimbabwe), 'Asimbonanga' (the version with Mandela on stage), 'December African Rain' and 'Kilimanjaro' (a very 80ties version). Last night when he played The Crossing, a song dedicated to his friend Dudu, who was assasinated in a taxi in 1992, six ballet dancers accompanied him on stage - and I just burst into tears, and so did the people next to me. Literally crying. I haven't done that in years.

However, I think my strong admiration for Johnny Clegg has something to do with myself in terms of being a white woman in Africa. Whenever I listen to his songs I am being reminded to behave decently. Not to take advantage of my background or my position. To respect people for what they are, and to take an interest in their culture. I.e. I've always felt extremely stupid listening to Scatterlings of Africa on the way to work when at the same time saying no to beggars on the road side, or getting irritated by the Sudanese refugees who showed up late for our meetings.

But I've also learnt that it takes more than that. It also takes dedication and commitment (Clegg speaks fluent Zulu), and approaching things with passion makes it easier (see him dance). It also takes concentration and hard work (check his bio). I'm not there yet, but basically, he reminds me of not taking the easy way out in whatever I do.

Thanks for a good night. It was worth the hangover!

Read about Johnny Clegg here.
 

June 29, 2008

Freshly Ground

This band is one of my South African favourites.

Check out this music video. It is absolutely beautiful.

June 27, 2008

Checking out

I'm leaving now now for a week's HOLIDAY in Johannesburg. Posting on this blog could be limited.

June 25, 2008

‘I want hair like this!’ - Lessons from the Beauty Saloon in Dar es Salaam

Hair_2I want hair like this!’, the young woman of Arab origin exclaims. She has just entered the crammed beauty saloon. She is wearing a tight pink top with big, round buttons placed right in front of where one supposes her nipples must be. It is so remarkably direct that I can’t help noticing the boldness of this.

Besides, there is something about women who have chosen to communicate to others strictly in imperative. I get caught by the conversation in the saloon.

There is plenty to get inspired from. Here are women of different nationalities and races. Women with different ideas of what is in hairstyle-wise.

The radio is buzzing, playing everything from the 1980ties. There is a strong smell of acetone and perfume. A sign is telling customers not to bring loitering children or to eat food.

The hair dressers are working simultaneously on three women’s hair. One is having extensions made, long artificial hair is simply sown onto her own, bit by bit. Another has her hair braided. And the third has her hair flattened with a sort of an iron. Before that the hair has most likely been treated with 'relaxers'  etc. to straighten out the curls.

The Arab woman moves around the crowded saloon. She has got long, black, smooth hair. Hair the African women next to her only can get by flattening or having extensions. She points at the woman having her hair flattened into a sharp-edged bob. She can’t seem to make up her mind about the potential project of cutting her long hair short, but keeps going; ‘I really want to wear my hair like this and then I also want huge round earrings.

She leaves the saloon. The women talk in a mix of Kiswahili and English. I’m here having my eyebrows threaded, an ancient and highly effective Asian method to remove hair. Basically it feels like as if someone is cutting through your eyebrows with a sharp knife. I'm usually been told that ‘it is not usual to cry that much.' Amid my tears I ask if the woman made up her mind before she left.

‘No, but her husband has’, the hairdresser fixing my eyebrows replies, and continues ‘You know she might want to cut her hair short, but her husband has said no. You get it all the time here with the Arabs. If the husband prefers her with long hair, that’s how she will be.’

Find books about African hair here.

June 24, 2008

Go on a birding safari in Dar es Salaam

I've been helping a friend to promote this young man, Andrew Majembe, who has an extra-ordinary talent for birding. Now, birding surely isn't among my hobbies, along with getting up before the sun on Sundays, but I'm all for young people with a passion and talent. Also he told me that sometimes there are flamingos at one of the birding sites, so maybe I'll go eventually. If you're into birding, want to test it, or in need for suggestions to keep your visitors busy, do try Andrew:

Birdman01
Come and join me on a 'Birding safari' around Dar where over 493 species of birds have been identified.

My name is Andrew Majembe and I am a qualified Birder with a passion for conservation and over 10 years of field experience.


Typical 'Birding Safari'

We meet at 0630 at the Millennium Towers, Bagamoyo Road in Makumbusho. Most Birding Safaris take place at weekends. From there we drive to one of the 6 sites around the city. A typical Birding Safari lasts 2-4 hours. You need to provide your own transport. Wear comfortable walking shoes and bring the following:

• sun hat and binoculars • drinking water and snack • camera • insect repellent • field guide (optional)

We identify the various birds on foot and also discuss other fauna and flora. Previous experience is not required - you only need to be interested in con-servation and the outdoors. 


Birding Sites:

1. Kunduchi and Jangwani salt pans
2. University of Dar es Salaam
3. Kibugumo - South beach
4. Pande Game Reserve
5. Goba village
6. Pugu hills, Dondwe and Kazimzumbwi forests


Fee structure and Booking:

No of persons/Fee (TSh) :
1 20,000
3 50,000
5 80,000
8 (maximum) 120,000

Fees exclude transport to the site. For bookings and further information, contact me on +255 (0) 784 490 399 or email: wildlife2001tz@yahoo.com

June 23, 2008

I wonder how Zimbabwe is doing?

MugabeSeems there is no end to the satirical images portraying different aspects of the crisis - from Facebook here (and above). 

BBC Africa reports that Zimbabwe's opposition leader Morgan Tsvangirai yesterday has taken refuge in the Dutch embassy in the capital, Harare - here.

The www.sokwanele.com documents the political violence here.

What will happen on Friday?Mb



June 22, 2008

Barcamp NAIROBI '08 (seen through the eyes of the only Danish NGO-worker present)

Barcampnairobi08 On Saturday I went to Nairobi for the Barcamp Nairobi 2008.

As I wrote here, I was worried there would be too much focus on the technical geek stuff. But I have to say that in spite it did flavour the agenda and the conversations among the many, many people who'd come along, it was OK.

In fact, I think I learnt something (the Google Maps session gave me an idea that maybe we can use the maps in the NGO I work for, i.e. to illustrate where we work and with whom. I also think it could be integrated and utilised in terms of advocacy campaigns, i.e. on anti-corruption and Public Expenditure Tracking).

For sure I got inspired (The blogger, www.peperuka.com did an amazing presentation at high speed, opening with 'I blog for money. Only!' And that 'Google is your friend.' Download his presentation here. Any blogger can learn something from that! The guys from Lighting up Kenya also gave an inspiring presentation - how to use ICT to promote sustainable fuel - in order to give access to information in the most rural areas --> development.

The lightning sessions (an interesting concept where you have to give a speed talk presentation (like lightning) on an interesting topic) gave good ideas on using blogs to promote Kenyan/African literature; One was reminding us that 'the colonial masters' did a great job documenting events in the political system, but what do we do today when all is run by ICT? A Student of Law gave an essential input on the fact that bloggers are free to write whatever, but what if it isn't true?! A real good point, which had deserved a whole session (I couldn't help thinking about adding on to that my own experience with mob justice in cyberspace.)

And the massive amount of people who'd come along voluntarily and eager to give or take, was a motivating factor in itself (see photos here). And it gave me a lot of stuff to think of, in many different directions:

  • I couldn't help thinking; 'Listen we're in Africa! Have you got any idea of what creative energy and motivation here is? Both in terms of having the ability and the urge to move, to change and develop?' Africa is much more than pre- and post election chaos.
  • Secondly I thought about the embarrassing fact that the bigger international NGOs present in East Africa write strategies, talk about it, arrange workshops and conferences, and talk some more. The NGOs preach participation, ownership and contribution. The NGOs pay people allowances to participants to participate, Participation is sort of formalized and has in many cases moved too far away from what is was all about; development by, through and for people. The ministries in all of the East African countries have the same depressive set-up, and citizens get the idea that participating is not real if not rewarded by posho - the Kiswahili term for allowances.
  • This was an unconference. The was no allowances, travel reimbursement, no paid lunch. The organisers had arranged sponsors which paid the facilities, the bandwith and the merchandise. I think we were around 100-150 people. The Permanent Secretary for the Ministry of Information Technology, Ndemo, said it clearly when he got the task to wrap up the day; 'I don't know the incentive - what have brought you here?! No money, no lunch.' He further explained that it is now how his ministry works when they try to bring people for discussion, and he emphasised that we must change this. His speech on some points turned into that of a politician, but I agreed on his points, that 'people need to trust each other and to share ideas.'

To answer Ndemo's question to the crowd, I'd say that that is exactly why people turned up in high numbers (without any other incentive.)

Asante sana to the guys who got the idea and the sponsors - and who organised. 


Mishkaki with lime juice and pili pili

Miskaki'Mishkaki' is Kiswahili for the East African version of 'shish kebab'.

In this case (photo) beef chunks, which I prefer (in particular to old, stringy goat or mutton).

The meat is marinated, put on a skewer and grilled over hot coals.

Served with pure lime juice, a bit of finely chopped pili pili, and salt.

One of the simplest, nice tasting snacks. Excellent with beer, baridi sana. 500 TSH for one stick.

Note that in spite of the simplicity - and all-over- availability of this snack - it can easily be messed up (too much time on the grill, too much time in the sun, too dry or bad quality meat), However, I had exceptional good mishkaki (photo) on Friday afternoon at Jackie's on the Haile Selassie in Dar es Salaam.


June 20, 2008

I get this for free & at least once a day

Img_0332People back home talk about it, save for months (or borrow and pay off) and finally make that holiday once every third or fifth year to a place with a view like this.

However, in between my quick daily snaps of the Indian Ocean, I do stuff which certainly isn't holiday related.

But it is the little things like this which make up for all the crap which is also part of being a development worker.

 

Promoting Air Uganda

Do you know that you can fly Dar es Salaam - Kampala for only 365 USD? Straight, and no stop overs in Nairobi. Try Air Uganda!

Barcamp NAIROBI '08

Barcamp_nairobi_08_poster212x300I'm going tomorrow morning. Finally, got tickets sorted. I'm still in doubt if there will be too much of a technical overload for my capacity. However, I believe I can get some inspiration and learn more about how the civil society can become better at using information and communication technology, and social media.

And then, something else.

When I first posted about the barcamp NAIROBI '08 here, I received a long, angry email, which in short was telling me off for being a white stupid female in Africa. That's one thing, but what came after made me in doubt about going anywhere, because the sender, titling himself as a young proud son of the nation, also complained that 'barcamps are by and for white people'.

I had never heard about the barcamp phenomenum before then, and I actually questioned myself thinking maybe it is a wazungu thing, and right, that would be stupid... But, hey, check out Facebook here, where you can see who is attending.

You judge then!

I'm going!

RE: Men's Paradise. Maidens made in Tanzania.

Tz08_salaama_sign_tanga01 This is by large the weirdest - and maybe the most gender-non-sensitive article on Tanzania, I have ever read: Men's Paradise. Maidens made in Tanzania.

I might be wrong, but the first lines go:

If you are planning to visit Tanzania one of these days, don't miss to travel to Tanga, a northern seaport.You couldn't have missed a story or two - usually of the naughty stock - about the 'notorious' women of Tanga. They say girls from this region are so schooled at handling men that Tanga could easily qualify for a Men’s Paradise if ever there was such a thing.

What annoys me after having read it, is firstly the headline (is the writer promoting Tanga as a sex paradise for men?) Besides, the article doesn't quote any person, in particular it doesn't ask any of the 'notorious' women - or men - what they think. It doesn't put the thing the notorious women do into any present perspective. Being schooled at handling men? Right, so the men are made happy in Tanga by women who enjoy to make men happy because they are brought up to do so? And more men should go there?!

What's in it for the women? Most women I've seen in Tanga really do seem too busy to be notorious...

Illustrating image from a wall in Tanga - a commercial advertising the use of condoms.

June 19, 2008

Dinner at the Badminton Institute

Dinner_at_the_badminton_instA lot of people put an effort into avoiding the chaotic and crammed city centre of Dar es Salaam arguing that they have no business there, that it is not safe or that parking is impossible.

Whatever.

The centre is chaotic, but that is exactly how it should be. And I like the fact that Dar es Salaam is a minority in terms of being a(n unofficial) metropol on the African continent with a city centre where you can actually walk around freely and relatively safe.

Even at night, and at that time parking is not a problem. The parking dudes in the streets will, however, still try to make you park their way. Obviously, you shouldn't walk around with all your valuables on you, and you must take the same precautions here as in other big cities.

I have recently discovered the Badminton Institute - a place of  Indian origin. In order to find a place like this, you have to know someone who knows. My new friend Dolar (photo), newly arrived from South Africa, has a special talent for this.

The name might at first eyesight be a bit misleading. And the brilliant logo gave me the association of the good old USSR. Nevertheless, there are badminton facilities, but the main attraction is a restaurant - Jikoni - with a multiple variety of entertainment offers - big TV screen (sports!), a playground and a bar. The walls are painted in bright blue, and you sit on the regular plastic chairs, bathed in the shine from the neon lights. The waiters are effective and friendly. The food is good and cheap. The coconut/chili relish and the pickled pili pilis are excellent.

You can actually become a member. Dar es Salaam is (in)famous for its clubs or various kinds of societies where you need others to recommend you, go through a trial period before you pay a membership fee. I'm quite sure that I'll never make it to the Yacht Club, I also think I might be more into something like the Badminton Institute.


June 18, 2008

Ameoa or Ameolewa - Marrying or being married?

When you get married in Tanzania there is the marrying part - ameoa - and the part being married to the other - ameolewa. The man is  marrying, and the woman is being married.

The example came from a one of our Tanzanian partners after a workshop today when using a metaphor to visualise the facts of organisations merging or affiliating. Yep, the issue of a potential affiliation with Action Aid International does flavour many conversations.

I couldn't help noticing that MS has always identified herself as a woman. 'Ach, but women also have many advantages in a marriage', he concluded supportively, though we all know that there is a difference if you are the active part marrying someone, or the supposedly more passive part being married.

Abstinence - 100% Guaranteed!

Abstinence

Regular readers of my blog ‘I’ve left Copenhagen for Uganda’ know my perspective on abstinence in terms of preventing infections like STDs or HIV:

I think it is an ultra-Christian, hypocritical mental black-out, completely out of line with reality. Because, people all over the world, not just in Africa, do have sex! In stead, give people an informed choice. Make them  aware of their options. Provide them with free condoms (and spare the stickers).

I found this sticker at the inside of my closet in the room when I was staying at the MS TCDC two weeks ago. Someone has been intending to send a signal. Fortunately, the MS TCDC has provided free condoms, nicely arranged in a little wooden box in all rooms!

Please, read more here about the Abstain Be Faithful and use a Condom (ABC) Campaign. In particular I support the criticism part here: Whilst the pillars of the ABC approach can reduce HIV transmission, the interpretation of the three elements causes controversy in international health policy making. For example, the U.S. President's Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief has been criticised for prioritising "A" and "B" over "C", within its funding criteria. "C" activities may only be directed at "high-risk" groups, and not to the general population. (United States Government Accountability Office, 2006; Cohen J. Tate T. 2005) .

June 15, 2008

Another civil war in Sudan?

Car A year ago I was working with a civic education programme along and across the Ugandan border to Southern Sudan. The aim of the programme was to create awareness and knowledge of the peace agreement between Northern and Southern Sudan, established in January, 2005.

We did so by simply training 70 civic educators and about 250 paralegals who would then go and work in the refugee settlements in Northern Uganda, and in the returnee communities in Southern Sudan. On many occasions it had to be emphasised that the peace agreement as such was not complete, though it was in its process of being implemented.

Amongst others, there was, and still is, an very open space regarding where the geographical borders are to be set between Northern and Southern Sudan and who is entitled to the natural resources. Should the border line be drawn above or below the source of oil? The politicians haven't agreed yet, and it has led to clashed in Abyei, a town on the supposed border. As usual it hits the civil population the hardest. No civic eduation programme can change that.

Read an up-date on BBC Africa here.

Which country in East Africa would be your first choice?

1211639787zuluToday the Sunday Vision Online writes about the East African Community.
which is the regional inter-governmental organisation of the republics of Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda and Tanzania with its headquarters in Arusha, Tanzania. A survey has been done on what the populations think of a stronger political co-operation, which you can read about here.

However, what I found the most interesting in the survey is the question which was asked in the three original EAC partner states (Uganda, Kenya  and Tanzania): 'If you were given an opportunity to visit one of the countries in East Africa, which one would be your first choice?'

  • The Ugandans’ first choice was Kenya (49%), followed by Tanzania (27%), Rwanda (17%) and Burundi (5%).
  • The Tanzanians, numbering 1,200, chose Uganda (38%), followed by Kenya (33%), Rwanda (9%) and Burundi (7%).
  • The Kenyans numbering 2,010 chose Tanzania (69%), followed by Uganda (20%), Rwanda (7%) and Burundi (3%).

The Ugandans prefer Kenya (49%), but the Kenyans don't prefer Uganda. The Tanzanians prefer Uganda (38%), but the Ugandans want to go to Kenya, and the Kenyans to Tanzania (69%).

Isn't that interesting?!  Obviously the survey is based on small numbers, but living in East Africa, you can't help noticing trends and that a lot of people have opinions on their neighbouring countries. Like the Scandinavians do. Outside the statistics it is said that the Tanzanians and the Ugandans fear the Kenyans who are known for being more outspoken, faster and good at doing business. Well, also infamous for corruption.The Tanzanians are known for taking it a bit too pole pole, for not saying what they think, but also for being peacefull. Uganda is not known for business, growth or being peacefull.

The article says a lot about what people believe to benifit from a membership of the East African Community, but out of pure curiosity I'd also really like to get to know more specifically why the different nationalities preferred to go to a one country in stead of another.

June 13, 2008

Promoting the Girl Effect

Su_07_yei_drc_school_visit_girl_w_2 Why Girls?

Because there’s poverty, and war, and hunger, and AIDS, and because when adolescent girls in the developing world have a chance, they can be the most powerful force of change for themselves, their families, communities, countries, and even the planet.

But while those 600 million adolescent girls are the most likely agents of change, they are often invisible to their societies and the world.

So what can you do about that? Help make girls visible. Stand up and be counted by becoming a fan of The Girl Effect, and getting your friends to do the same. Tell the world that you think the 600 million girls in the developing world deserve better – for themselves, and for the end of poverty.

That’s a start. Ready to learn and do more? Head over to girleffect.org.

The text is from the Girl Effect on Facebook. The photo is mine from Southern Sudan. I totally support the concept of supporting girls to get an education. It can change everything. However, having said so, support to girls' education (as in paying their school fees) must be accompanied by involving the government and the boys and men - or the change will be too slow.

June 11, 2008

Cactus

Cactus_2

June 09, 2008

BarCamp Kenya

Barcamp_nairobi_08_buttonBarCamp is an international network of user generated conferences — open, participatory workshop-events, whose content is provided by participants — often focusing on early-stage web applications, and related open source technologies, social protocols, and open data formats.

Honestly, none of the above can be found among my core competences. However, I'm in need for inspiration in general, and the term unconference is highly appealing when living an everyday life in the NGO world (which btw is in love with the term conference).

Barcamp Nairobi '08 is an unconference made up of of technical professionals, Internet enthusiasts, bloggers, designers and other clever people in the Nairobi area who wish to share and learn in an open environment.

Of all the categories I'm most likely to fall into the Internet enthusiast and blogger. I must admit that I'm far from sure that will be sufficient when looking at the other participants' choice of topic, on the other hand this is a too interesting event in my neighbourhood to miss out on...

Check it out here.

June 06, 2008

By the Way, Sunday 29th June - Johnny Clegg tickets :)

A friend in South Africa emailed me last week; By the Way, Sunday 29th June - Johnny Clegg tickets :)

Best news last week. No secret that I love escaping to South Africa, and on June 27 I will be checking out of Dar es Salaam for a one week leave in Johannesburg. Seriously, I can't wait (and yes I'm aware of the fact that SA has been on fire for the past weeks, but I won't dig into that now).

Not only am I looking forward to seeing Johnny Clegg in action,  but I also need to see friends and to get a real break. Not that I don't dig Dar es Salaam. I just need a change, in particular from the work, the office and the NGO I work for. To recharge and to distance myself. Get perspective. Work has accumulated, and life at the office has recently, on occasion, resembled episodes from the British sitcom of the same name,

Usually a trip to Jozi sorts that out.

If you don't know Johnny Clegg - check him out here.

Kanga Fashion

Znz_06_stone_town_kanga_03 Lots of different initiatives, even a couple from Scandinavia, have created fashionable clothes out of the East African kanga. I really love the kanga, and in particular a lot of the fashionable items people produce of it.

First there is the well-established Swedish Kanga Kabisa based in Stone Town: Then there is the Danish initiated Malkia, also based in Zanzibar, but which hasn't got a website.

There is the Morogoro based Doreen Mashika (who doesn't actually (yet) use kanga), but kitenge), and who is making the most fantastic silver jewellery, bags and shoes, which she is soon to sell from a shop in Hurumzi Street in Zanzibar. Her website is not up and running yet, due to her being very pregnant, but look out for it. Her stuff is fabulous, and making me poorer.

Finally, there is the LaLesso, the South African based company which got themselves into all of these fashion magazines.

3 homosexuals arrested in Uganda

Human rights group Amnesty International has strongly condemned the arrest of three homosexual rights activists at a Ugandan Aids conference, the BBC Africa writes here.

Homosexual acts are illegal in Uganda. Is it an homosexual act to distribute leaflets?

June 05, 2008

One of those quiet scandals

Beautifull_kilimanjaroThe East African writes in this weekly issue about a moral dilemma concerning the fact that  many tourists climbing the Kilimanjaro are conflicting with the conditions of the porters - the local people carrying your stuff to the top, guiding you, and providing you the comfort you need after a hard day's climbing.

You can climb the Kilimanjaro at many different levels in terms of budget and comfort. I have heard about tourists climbing it with portable toilets and a tented dining hall! And I have heard about people doing it low-budget camping style.

However, the number of porters dying every year on duty, paints a rather clear picture of a significant dilemma. About 20 guides and porters die every year. Around 25,000 people attempt to climb it every year. In average 6 out of 10 don't make it to the top.

Whereas tourists pay big money to reach the summit, and while they do enjoy the comfort provided by the porters, the East African reports that in many cases the porters are not even being paid, but rely on tips. Also the porters often must provide their own equipment. They also face the risk of a bad health due to i.e. snow blindness caused by not wearing the right glasses or they simply become ill due to lack of acclimatisation.

Some of the other facts in the article are even more outstandingly hard to believe.

It is the British The Times which has raised the issue, calling it one of them quiet scandals. Also saying that by Western standards this would have been called exploitation.

The dilemma stands clear in particular when it comes to the Western charity organisations campaigning and mobilising people to join a cause by creating attention to it by climbing the highest free-standing mountain in Africa. The Times calls for a debate on this issue, and I am sure there are many more quiet scandals in Africa like this one, where tourists (like to) believe that they join a philantropic game in the name of charity, but the harsh fact is that they might be closer to Stanley (on his search for Livingstone) than what they like to think.

It is not new. In my world I frequently experience that the link between campaigning/fundraising in Denmark on an African development issue is questionable. I have experienced that the campaigning part simply has little sincere or professional interest in the cause itself but rather is too hyped on the campagning efforts to bother about the people whose life conditions you want to improve. There is something fundamentally wrong with this way of creating awareness and funds, because it turns about to be so much more about ourselves than the ones we pretend we want to help. Surely, I'm no philantrop, but on a personal and professional level I'm tired of this lack of connection between the people here and the people in the Western world, and I'm aware of the fact that not just charity foundations, but also NGOs are balancing on this edge, too.

Read the article here.

June 03, 2008

What if MS affiliates with Action Aid?

Actionaidcar

The other day I got stuck in the Dar es Salaam traffic jam on the Ali Hassan. Right next to an Action Aid car.

Made me think.

The board of the Danish NGO I work for, has in a board meeting in Denmark on May 30 unanimously decided to recommend the general assembly (September 13-14) to sign an association agreement with Action Aid International.

It is a long story of what lead to this, but not as interesting as the question on what might come after? If MS affiliates or if it doesn't?

I find it almost impossible not to have an opinion on this (having worked for MS since 1999, and previously been a member of the MS board and the MS Uganda Policy Advisory Council).

But I also find myself split on the issue. Hence, I'd rather give the word to the chair woman of MS Tanzania's Policy Advisor Concil, who I interviewed last week. Read here